Cervinia
The Town
Bars & Après in Cervinia
There’s more to a ski holiday or a snowboarding trip that just carving up the piste. Sometimes, you just want to jump on a table, throw your arms around the shoulder of a stranger, and belt out Sweet Caroline as the sun sets. And that’s certainly possible in Cervinia. Although the resort isn’t too loud and lairy, there’s enough to keep the average bunch of skiers and snowboarders happy. If you’re after the wildness of St. Anton, Cervinia won’t be for you. But the skiing is so good here, maybe you’ll be glad you’ve woken up without too much of a hangover and made it to the piste for first lifts.
APRÈS-SKI
LOVE Bar
The après starts at LOVE. This is where you’re going to pose for those iconic photos in front of the sign, and make all your friends back home just a little bit jealous. With a huge outdoor terrace, a prime position underneath the Matterhorn, live DJ sets, flares and plenty of dancing on the tables, LOVE is apres at its best. A little bit cheesy, a little bit wild and ridiculously good vibes. The party gets going from 3pm. Get there early, as kicking out time rolls around quickly – once the lifts are shut, the mountain bars have to close, too. Mountain Patrol will gently, but firmly, make sure everyone is out and heading down once the party has ended. So, unfortunately, there’s never ‘One More Tune!’ here. But that’s alright, as there are plenty of places to keep the party going once you’ve got to the bottom of Blue 5 (or Red 3, if you’re feeling sober).
The Bar (Principe Delle Nevi)
Normally the second stop on the après bar crawl after leaving LOVE. The Bar has a pretty large indoor area, and you’ll be grateful for it, because once the sun goes behind the mountains, temperatures in Cervinia drop fast. That being said, it’s draws a huge crowd once LOVE closes, so if you want a table, or even a chair to chuck all your jackets onto, get there early. It’s got gorgeous mountain modern vibes, and does a great aperitivo, but still has a party atmosphere. Like the resort, itself, they manage to combine laidback style, and getting a little bit loud & loose. Thursday is the big night here, but there’s always great music, dancing is encouraged and you even don’t need to worry about downing too many limoncello, as you can walk back into town from The Bar. Health & Safety-wise, this is probably (definitely) what you should do, but most people make their way back down using the final couple of hundred metres of Red 3 on skis or snowboard. You know the drill, don’t get absolutely sloshed and ski. Breaking an arm doing something gnarly in the park is one thing, tripping up over your own poles (yep, I speak from experience) because you’ve had one too many, isn’t quite so cool.
Lino’s Umbrella Bar
OK, you’ve made it back to town safely from The Bar, and probably skied right up to Lino’s Umbrella Bar and ordered a beer before you’ve clocked that’s where you are. This is apres, with a slightly more (how do we say this?) relaxed vibe. It’s an Umbrella Bar, it’s not ever going to be fine dining and fancy, and we love it for this exact reason. The classic après, pop bangers and chart toppers blast out so loudly there’s no point trying to hold a conversation. But by this point in the night, all you’re trying to say, anyway, is ‘I love you, man’, to the stranger you met 20 minutes ago, who you’re sure will be your new best friend for life. Just an FYI, there are no toilet facilities here. As your mother would say (if she was at après in Cervinia), ‘you should have gone before you left’ The Bar.
The Dragon
If you haven’t visited Cervinia since before that big, old, global pandemic, you’re going to be shocked at the transformation The Dragon has undergone. It’s had a makeover, got itself an extra bar downstairs and now caters to a mixed Italian & British crowd. The aperitivo is *chef’s kiss*, the Aperol Spritz is delish, and with a view out onto the homeruns, it’s the perfect place to sip a drink and watch the wilder revelers make their way down the hill at the end of the day. We’re massive fans of The Dragon, and have been known to go for breakfast, lunch & aperitivo there all in one day. There’s still a lively atmosphere, but think ‘more chatting, less dancing’. In the downstairs bar, it’s got big tables, that are great for the larger groups to congregate around, but if you leave a seat or two empty, expect to be joined by strangers, who quickly become friends, too. Everyone in The Dragon is there for a good time.
YETI
Oh, Yeti Bar, what can I say? Well, not much really, because I’ve had many nights I can’t quite remember that ended here. It’s been an après bar since forever and is decorated with photos of skiers & snowboarders, seasonaires & staff, from years gone by. Maybe it’s because there aren’t windows, so you lose track of time, maybe it’s because they’re great at keeping the drinks flowing. Or, maybe it’s the altitude (at least that’s my excuse). Whatever the reason, you can wake up feeling a little bit worse for wear after a night out here. But, hey, there’s nothing like fresh mountain air to get rid of a hangover.
BARS
The Dragon
We’ve mentioned The Dragon for its awesome aperitivo at apres time, but you can quite easily find yourself happily staying here late into the evening, too. The atmosphere stays laidback, there’s no sudden DJ set or karaoke that starts at 9pm. It’s just the absolutely perfect spot for a properly good G&T, and a proper chat with your crew. The cocktails are great, the wine selection is extensive and the beer is reasonably priced. The music stays at that ‘perfect conversational’ level, playing a mixture of pop and indie rock. The newish downstairs bar has become my favourite spot. Grab one of the large, wooden tables, get yourself comfy surrounded by the mountain modern aesthetic and enjoy making friends with the group sat next to you. It really is one of those places where everyone is happy to talk to everyone. And in the morning, when you wake up with a much fresher head than those who headed on to Yeti, pop back to The Dragon for a coffee on the outdoor terrace. You can wave the little ones off to ski school from here, and sip your latte macchiato as the sun comes over the Matterhorn. Absolute bliss. As are their huge sandwiches and salads that are pretty phenomenal at lunch time, too.
Tasty
Tasty’s is a little, narrow bar on the high street, with a million and one gins served by knowledgeable bar staff. OK, they don’t quite have that many, but I guarantee, they’ll have a few bottles that even a gin connoisseur hasn’t tried before, from small batch & local distilleries. There’s not a lot of room here, so if you want a seat, get here before the lifts shut and you’re left with standing room only. It’s a firm favourite amongst the local ski instructors and the Brits who came here for one season and haven’t quite left yet. Tasty’s gets bonus points for its breakfast bagels.
Lo Copa Pan
Lo Copa Pan has reopened for the winter 23/24 seasons, after being closed for a few years due to the pandemic. And, let me tell you, we are pretty damn stoked. They’ll have live music in the upstairs bar from time to time (my favourite memory is ski instructor Fiona singing Valerie as I sipped the best espresso martini of my life) and the restaurant downstairs does dishes to die for. It’s not the cheapest, but still very reasonable compared to any restaurants you’ll find just over the border in Switzerland or France. Besides, with freshly sourced, local ingredients and a real attention to detail, it’s well worth slipping from the bar to the downstairs dining area.
Ymeletrob
The bar at Ymeletrob is one of the bigger bars in town, so you won’t need to squeeze in, or rush to get a table there. The cocktails are great and it’s got a really unique style, filled with art work made by the owner, Marie Anne. It’s a great choice for when you’re heading back out after dinner.
Restaurants in Cervinia
IN THE TOWN
The Dragon
Reservations: 0166 691578
The Dragon was freshly renovated in 2021 and with new Italian owners who have brought with them an extended wine list and great aperitivo. With a great atmosphere, The Dragon has pub vibes and is a favourite with Cervinia’s British holiday makers. The menu is hearty and filling – big burgers, hot dogs, pastas and salads, all served from lunch right the way through to nighttime. The sun hits the terrace at lunch time and the location is perfect for après ski.
Sotto Zero
Reservations: 348 459 7070
Ask anyone who lives here where to get the best pizza, and you’ll only get one answer (or else you’re talking to the village idiot). Sotto Zero knocks the socks off the competition, and even does both Romana & Napoli style, so you thick crust lovers are looked after, too. Ask for a doppio paste for that thick, thick base. The huge pizza oven that greets you on arrival is a good sign of the meal that’s to come. They’ve got other things on the menu, but I honestly couldn’t tell you what, because the pizza is so good, I’ve never bothered to look further in the menu. They also do takeaway, so you’ve got no excuse to try Sotto Zero before you leave.
Metzelet
Reservations: 348 703 0130
With a great, big sun terrace, go here for lunch and escape the busyness of the ski resort, while being only a minute away. In the evenings, the cosy interior and tasty-as-anything menu make for a really special experience. Lots of nods to local ingredients and dishes from the kitchen, plenty of interesting artefacts decorating the walls, and an attentive team, make it the perfect location to fill yourself up on hearty dishes, before tucking in for an early night, feeling all warm and satisfied. Again, it’s not the biggest of places, so book in advance. Thank me later.
Wood
Reservations: 0166 948161
There was a time, before the mountains called, and this little ski bum answered, that I was known to frequent a Michelin starred restaurant or two. Wood is everything a contemporary restaurant on the list should be. Less theatrical than London, less pretentious than Paris, it’s innovative, exciting cooking in ridiculously gorgeous scandi-modern surroundings. Book a table at Wood before you’ve even booked your flights. Just to drive the point home, a Michelin star in a ski resort is as rare as hen’s teeth. And it just goes to show how bold & brave the team is here – who’d think it possible to run a successful, starred restaurant an hour up a valley, in a resort where most guests are desperate for a quick bowl of pasta or a filling pizza? The tasting menu and paired wine flight is clever, cheeky and totally delicious. The sommelier knows their Barolo from their Barbera, and the young chefs in the kitchen deserve a very firm handshake and a pat on the back pulling off such a well-executed menu in the unlikeliest of locations.
Alpage
Reservations: 0166 949398
If you haven’t watched Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy, go and stream it immediately, especially the episode that focuses on Aosta. Then, once you have, head to Alpage, the seriously good restaurant featured on the programme. This is traditional food served with flair and finesse. It’s a little way out of town, so probably best to get a taxi, and it’s almost always fully booked, so make sure to ring for a reservation. It’s an absolute joy, especially for cheese lovers, and if you’re lucky enough to get a reservation for the evening, snatch it with both hands. It’s less busy at lunchtime, and for the non-skiers, there’s a gorgeous snowshoeing track that leads almost to the door. The trail is well maintained and hard packed, so its usually fine to do in hiking boots, too.
Jour et Nuit
Reservations: 0166 940060
Does the idea of a friendly, family-run restaurant, with exposed wooden beams and meat cooked over open flames sound like your idea of hell? Steer away from Jour et Nuit if you don’t like authentic, expertly cooked steaks complemented by a great selection of wines, with a heavy emphasis on the local. If, however, this sounds like a dream (yes, you are right), then make sure to save room for the awesome gelato.
Grivola
Reservations: +39 0166 948 287
I’ve got a real soft spot for this place. From the weird and wacky art on the walls, to the absolutely fab menu, it’s a place that’s relatively easy to get a late booking at, thanks to the large space downstairs. The wine list is on point and reasonably priced, they’ve got enough space to seat big groups, and there’s enough choice to please even the fussiest eaters.
Ymeletrob
Reservations: 339 139 0055
Come for the cocktails, stay for the grill. They also offer a special fish menu every Friday, for when you can’t take another plateful of meat & cheese. The interior ia s traditional Valdostan chalet, and there’s an emphasis on the homemade here. Fresh bread, pasta and desserts are a delight.
ON THE MOUNTAIN
LOVE – At the top of the Cretaz chairlift
Reservations: +39 334 906 2714
LOVE isn’t just wild apres. If you get there for lunchtime, you’ll realise there’s also a top class lunch menu and the interior is pretty swanky. Their speciality is burgers. The meat options are great, but this is probably the best veggie burger on offer this side of the Matterhorn. Go for the chilli dipping sauce. It’s fab. The views from the terrace are pretty stunning, and when the weather’s bad, the modern alpine decor and warm fire will welcome you inside. As you finish your lunch and the live musicians begin, you might just find you’re done with skiing for the day, and stay put at LOVE right the way through to apres.
Igloo – On Red 7
Reservations: +39 389 194 3622
The Igloo Restaurant in Cervinia is a fantastic choice if you’re looking for a memorable dining experience on the slopes and is one of the top-rated restaurants on Trip Advisor. It’s renowned for its exceptional grilled plates and other wholesome dishes influenced by the local area, but my favourite is definitely the grilled chicken. It’s a popular spot, so making a reservation in advance is advisable, especially during peak ski season. Just a note – the restaurant isn’t actually an Igloo but a beautiful wooden mountain hut.
Chalet Etoile – On Blue 25
Reservations: +39 327 021 4989
Beloved by all and one of thtop-rateded restaurants on the mountain is a cut above your average pizza & pasta hut. With no need for a full name when you’ve reached legendary status (Cher knows what I’m talking about), the locals simply refer to this place as ‘Chalet’. The food is innovative & modern, without ever taking the experimentation too far. The lamb is cooked to perfection, the flavours of the homemade soups are carefully balanced, and the desserts are always a crowd pleaser. In a word, I’d describe Chalet as ‘gorgeous’. The views, the staff, the decor, the food…. all of it just a gorgeous, gorgeous treat. It’s a little pricier than an average mountain meal, but if you want to take a real ‘pausa’ for lunch, there are worse places in the world to pass a few hours than Chalet Etoile.
Baita Cretaz – Near the bottom of Blue 5
Reservations: +39 0166 949 914
I’m a massive fan of Baita Cretaz. The last restaurant on the piste as you head down Blue 4, it’s a cracking spot to stop and order a bowl full of noodles before heading down. There’s only so much pizza and pasta you can eat (don’t @ me), and sometimes, you just need a little bit of Thai spice, or a plate of fresh sushi. Baita Cretaz has got you covered. They stay open through apres and into the evening, so if you want to return for the Italian dinner menu, give them a call, make a reservation, and get a lift up on the back of a skidoo.
Getting around Cervinia
Getting around the town itself is easily done on foot – in fact, you can walk around the entire lower part of town in around 10 minutes. However, if you’re staying up in Cielo Alto you’ll probably want to use the bus service otherwise it’s a 30-minute walk uphill on the road. There are two main ways to access the ski area from the town:
The first is by using the Cretaz chairlift which is found where the slope comes into the town, just off the high street. For those who’re staying in the lower, main part of town this is by far the easiest option and means you haven’t got to walk up any hills. Lift passes can also be purchased at the ticket office next to the Cretaz lift.
The second option is to use the Plan Maison gondola which is about a 5-minute walk uphill from the town (easily doable but perhaps not nicest first thing in the morning with ski boots on). Start with the Church on your left and follow the road where you will quickly find the steps on your left-hand side. Walk up the steps until you meet the road and then continue straight (don’t take the first left) and follow the road as it bends round the corner.
The bus service that operates in Cervinia connects Cielo Alto to the main part of Cervinia town and stops near the Church and also at the main bus station lower down towards the tunnel. For full details visit the Arriva website here.
There are local taxi services that operate in Cervinia and can drop you off at the gondola station or take you to/from Ceilo Alto or Cervinia 2. Their numbers are below:
Danielle Meynet: 0039 339 139 0429 (Daniele speaks good English)
Simone Nori: 0039 364 6924
Marco Pellissier: 0039 339 481 0614
Exploring nearby
If you want to get out and explore other areas in the valley then it is possible with public transport, but it can be quite time consuming. Realistically, the only other place worth visiting by public transport from Cervinia is Aosta and from there you can take the gondola up to the Pila ski area.
However, if you’ve got a car (or don’t mind paying for a taxi) then some other fantastic ski areas can be visitied including Gressoney, La Thuile & Courmayeur. If you’ve got a local Italian lift pass for 3 or more days then you’ll be able to ski in one of these resorts for free for a day or two.
Getting to Cervinia
Arriving via an Airport
Cervinia is located in the Valle d’Aosta region of Italy. The nearest airport to Cervinia is Turin Caselle Airport (TRN), which is approximately 120 km away and is definitely the best airport to fly to. The other options are Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP) which is 185 km away, Milan Linate (LIN) which is 206km away or Milan Bergamo Orio Al Serio (BGY) which is 230km away. Alternatively, you can fly into Geneva Airport (GVA) in Switzerland, which is approximately 205 km away.
From each of these airports you essentially have 3 choices – hire a car, take a taxi or use public transport. Renting a car from the airports is an easy way to get here and can work out cheaper than taking a taxi (plus you’ll have the added benefit of being able to use it to reach other resorts if you want to). But, if you do decide to rent a car it’s worth checking if you have parking with your accommodation. Although there are free car parks in Cervinia it can be a bit of a challenge as you’ll likely have to move your car throughout the week as the car parks are closed on certain days for snow clearing. Also – read below about the need for winter diesel.
Taxi
Taking a taxi is definitely the most stress free option and if there’s a few of you it can work out fairly reasonable.
Turin (TRN) – Cervinia taxi estimate: 1 hour 45 minutes – €220 for 1-4 passengers or €260 for 5-8 passengers (luggage dependent)
Milan Malpensa (MXP) – Cervinia taxi estimate: 2 hours 30 minutes – €320 for 1-4 passengers or €360 for 5-8 passengers (luggage dependent)
Milan Bergamo (BGY) – Cervinia taxi estimate: 2 hours 30 minutes – €400 for 1-4 passengers or €450 for 5-8 passengers (luggage dependent)
Geneva (GVA) – Cervinia taxi estimate: 3 hours – €550 for 1-4 passengers or €600 for 5-8 passengers (luggage dependent)
Taxi numbers:
Danielle Meynet: 0039 339 139 0429 (Danielle speaks good English)
Simone Nori: 0039 364 6924
Marco Pellissier: 0039 339 481 0614
Public Transport From Turin (TRN) – Around 4 hours
You will need to take the bus from the airport to Torino Porta Nuova. Once you’ve collected your luggage and exited into the arrivals hall follow the signs to exit the terminal and take a right as soon as you get outside and you will see a sign for the bus. The bus takes around 45 minutes to reach Torino Porta Nuova and the buses run every 30 minutes. You can purchase your ticket on the bus with a contactless card payment or with cash (around €7.50).
Once you’re at Torino Porta Nuova you will need to make your way to Châtillon in the Valle d’Aosta. Unfortunately, the train from Turin to Châtillon that used to run is temporarily out of service (for the next 3 years) due to work being done on the railway line. The timetable for the buses can be found here.
Once you arrive in Châtillon you have one final journey to make – a bus that takes you directly to Cervinia by ascending 1500m, taking roughly one hour. The buses start at 05:20 and the last bus is at 19:25 so make sure you’ll arrive in plenty of time (ideally don’t bank on catching the last bus just in case there are any delays in your journey!). The timetable can be found here.
There is also another possible route which involves taking a train from Torino Porta Nuova to Ivrea. From Ivrea you would need to take a bus to Châtillon and then the bus from Châtillon up to Cervinia.
Due to the distance the other airports are from Cervinia we’re not going to go into detail about the public transport links to them. However, the aim would always be to get to Chatillon and then take the bus up to Cervinia from there.
Arriving By Car
If you’re planning to drive to Cervinia then you’ll certainly be in for a scenic journey! We won’t go into detail about how to get to Cervinia (after all I’m sure you’ve got Google Maps!) but we can offer some practical advice. Once you reach the town of Chatillon in the valley you will turn off to start to ascent up to Cervinia. Chatillon is at 550m above sea level and Cervinia is at 2050m – so you’ve got 1500m to gain over the next 45 minutes and that means there are some steep roads with lots of hairpins.
Make sure you’re prepared and check the weather before heading up – every season loads of tourists get stuck in the snow on the way up with their powerful rear-wheel drive cars sliding around. Winter tyres are a must and make sure you’ve got chains too otherwise you risk being “that” person who blocks the road for everyone else behind them.
Another thing that can catch you out is the need for winter diesel if you have a diesel car. Due to the very cold temperatures, an additive is added to the diesel sold in the valley which stops it from freezing overnight. Therefore, make sure you fill up your tank when you arrive in Chatillon or at one of the petrol stations on the way up to Cervinia (at least fill the remaining space in your tank with winter diesel).
We also recommend checking ahead with your accommodation about where you can park your car. If they’ve got parking then great, but if not you’ll need to use one of the public car parks. These are free but are often quite a walk from your accommodation and can get pretty busy (especially when the heavy snowfall means a lot of the car park is unusable). If you do park in the public free car parks then take a picture of the sign as each car park closes for a few hours on a specific day so the snow can be cleared. If you forget to move your car it will get towed – trust me from experience. Just in case you’re unlucky enough for that to happen it will have been taken here.
Medical Information for Cervinia
If you need any medical assistance while you’re in Cervinia you will find the details below. We always recommend contacting your insurance company if you become ill or have an accident while on the mountain. In our experience the majority of insurance companies are very good at helping you receive the best treatment while you’re on holiday and often have translators available to assist. Always keep the receipts of anything that you have to pay for as you may be able to claim the costs back.
Unfortunately, injuries are a common occurrence in ski resorts but the medical facilities are set up to provide the best care possible.
Pharmacy
Tel: 0039 0166 949 059
Opening Times
Monday: 08:30 – 12:30 & 15:30 – 19:30
Tuesday: 08:30 – 12:30 & 15:30 – 19:30
Wednesday: 08:30 – 12:30 & 15:30 – 19:30
Thursday: 08:30 – 12:30 & 15:30 – 19:30
Friday: 08:30 – 12:30 & 15:30 – 19:30
Saturday: 08:30 – 12:30 & 15:30 – 19:30
Sunday: 08:30 – 12:30 & 15:30 – 19:30
The pharmacy is located near to the main roundabout and right next to the Sweetside of the Matterhorn cafè. It is open for the same hours everyday and if you’re feeling unwell then we generally recommend visiting the pharmacy first as they’re very helpful. In Italy it is also possible to get more medications over the counter from the pharmacy without a prescription than in other countries so a visit to a doctor may not be necessary. The staff speak good English and will be able to help with contacting a doctor if you do require one.
It is possible to rent crutches from the pharmacy, subject to availability.
Doctors
Tel: 0039 166 949 120 / 0039 337 249 928
Opening Times
Monday: CLOSED
Tuesday: 16:00 – 18:00
Wednesday: 16:00 – 18:00
Thursday: 11:00 – 12:00
Friday: 16:00 – 18:00
Saturday: 16:00 – 18:00
Sunday: CLOSED
The doctor is Cervinia is Dr Maquignaz Maria Gabriella and her office is located on the high street, opposite the Hotel Compagnoni. If you need to visit the doctor you should make an appointment by calling 0039 166 949 120 / 0039 337 249 928. If required, the doctor may be able to visit you in the hotel / accommodation. This is a private doctor and therefore you will need to pay a fee to be seen.
Trauma Centre
Tel: 0039 0166 940 175
Opening Times
Monday: 09:30 – 17:30
Tuesday: 09:30 – 17:30
Wednesday: 09:30 – 17:30
Thursday: 09:30 – 17:30
Friday: 09:30 – 17:30
Saturday: 09:30 – 17:30
Sunday: 09:30 – 17:30
The trauma centre is located near to Tourist Information and is where the majority of ski injuries will be dealt with. The clinic is able to take x-rays and apply plaster casts where required. The clinic is private and therefore you will need to pay to be seen (make sure you keep all receipts so you can claim from your insurance company).
The Trauma Centre is able to provide a “fit to fly” document which is required by airlines if you have an obvious injury. Without this document they may not allow you to fly so it’s very important.
Hospital
Tel: 0039 0165 5431
Opening Times
The hospital is open 24 hours a day 7 days a week
The hospital in the valley is located in Aosta and is called Ospedale Umberto Parini. Serious illness and ski injuries will be taken here, normally by helicopter. It takes around 1 hour to reach Aosta by car or 1.5 hours on public transport.
The hospital does accept EHIC but if you or someone you’re travelling with is admitted to the hospital we recommend calling your insurance company straight away. The staff at the hospital are great and a lot of them speak a good level of English.